Difference between Bobbin, Looper and Needle Elastic Threads

Difference between Bobbin, Looper and Needle Elastic Threads

 

 Apparel Production industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar

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This is a guest contribution from Rakesh Kumar.

In the earlier post Rakesh has explained what elastic thread is. He has also mentioned that the same elastic thread can be used as bobbin elastic, looper elastic and needle elastic. But when elastic thread is called as bobbin elastic, looper elastic and needle elastic?

The differences between these threads are explained here.

Bobbin Elastic

When the elastic thread is used in bobbin to sew garment components, it is known as bobbin elastic. Stitch formation is being done with normal thread in needle and elastic thread in bobbin. This is used to provide gather look in the garment. 

This stitch is being done on lock stitch machine only. Elastic thread can be winded (coiled) in bobbin manually or through bobbin winder. This stitch is helpful to provide better strength to seam due to lock stitch features.

Looper Elastic

When the elastic thread is fed via looper to sew garment components are known as looper elastic. Stitch formation is being done with normal thread in needle while elastic in looper. It gives gather look to the garment. This stitch can be done on multi thread chain stitch machine only. Looper is well designed to pass elastic with minimum tension. 

Needle Elastic

In case of needle elastic, stitch formation is being done with elastic thread in needle only while we can feed up to 3 threads through spreader. Looper forms the chain without thread through electrical movement (a magnetic movement of looper to make loop at inner side of ply). This can be done on multi thread chain stitch only. We need to change gather pressor foot and DVK 25 needle to give a good result. Notable we use blind looper in this stitch. This is design known as smocking.

Sample for needle elastic

Blind looper

Eye looper

Spreader

A comparative study of usage of elastic thread in 3 different form and equipment requirement are shown in the following table.

Base of comparison	Bobbin Elastic	Looper Elastic	Needle Elastic
Needle Type	UO113GS DV57(Low Cost)	UO113GS (Both Side thread), DV 57	DVK25, DV 57(Low Cost)
Thread	Needle Thread, looper/bobbin thread while Elastic through Spreader	Needle thread and looper elastic	Needle elastic only
Sewing machine	Normal, multi thread chain stitch m/c	Normal, multi thread chain stitch m/c	Design machine multi thread chain stitch
Pressor foot	Plain/Gather Foot	Plain/Gather Foot	Gather Foot
RPM	2850	2850	1420
Looper	Through Spreader and Eye Looper	Eye Looper	Blind Looper
Gauge Set	Minimum 3/16”	Minimum 3/16”	Minimum 3/16”

What is Bobbin Elastic Thread in Garment Stitching

 Apparel Production industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar

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This is a guest submission from Rakesh Kumar.

First let me explain what elastic thread is. It is a kind of elastic which is mounted with thread. This thread is stretchable. Mainly used for shirring, smocking in garment component. 

Thread mounting can be done clock wise or anti-clock wise. Anti-clock wise wrapping is helpful to provide locking strength to the stitch. Elastic threads are available in different count. Elastic threads are thicker than normal threads.

The elastic thread can be used as bobbin elastic or looper elastic or needle elastic. Material is almost same in all cases. When elastic is fed from bobbin, it is known as bobbin elastic.

There are two kinds of bobbin elastic thread. First one is knitted elastic thread and other one woven elastic thread. Normally woven elastic thread in woven garment and knitted elastic thread in knitted garments.

Bobbin Elastic

In case of bobbin elastic, stitch formation is being done with normal thread in needle and elastic thread in bobbin. This is used to provide gather look (shirring) in the garment or to meet style specification. Elastic thread is visible from the bottom and normal thread on the top of the seam. 

Bobbin winded with elastic thread

Many assume that in bobbin elastic stitch formation is being done on needle/looper thread while elastic is fed through spreader is called bobbin elastic. But it is not. This stitch is being done on lock stitch machine only. Elastic thread can be winded (coiled) in bobbin manually or through bobbin winder. This stitch is helpful to provide better strength to seam due to lock stitch features. While winding bobbin thread should not be stretched. 

Additional information: Sourcing lead time of white elastic thread is 3-6 days while for dyed 5-12 days depending on the supplier (in India).

How much Computer Knowledge is required for an Industrial Engineering Candidate in Garment Production?

 industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar

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Industrial Engineering department is becoming one of the core departments in apparel manufacturing (at least in garment export houses). Employers are looking for junior engineers and college pass-outs are looking for jobs. In this stage one question asked by both how much computer literacy/skill is enough for the IE candidate. You may name junior IEs as work study officers. 

Look at the job profile of an Industrial Engineer (junior level). As we know, all senior IEs (Industrial Engineers) already literate in computers. An IE’s tasks include data capturing, data analysis and report making. In today’s factories all these are done in computers.

Even many garment factories have ERP, IT based data tracking system, MIS systems.

Minimum computer knowledge required for an IE candidate – he should know how to work on word processing (MS Word) and spread sheet (MS Excel/Open Office). 

Basic things an IE needs to know on MS Excel are

1.                  Making tables / formats (Merge cells) in a spread sheet

2.                  Formatting cells, fonts (color, bold, fonts types etc.)

3.                  Cut, Copy and Paste text in same file or in other file

4.                  Taking screenshot and saving it in image file

5.                  Working with mathematical formulas (like – Sum, average, multiply, divide)

6.                  Good speed in typing and error free typing

7.                  Making charts and graphs for statistical analysis (Optional)

Eventually an IE will communicate with his seniors and higher management and other departments in the factory. Departments like merchandising, production, cutting, maintenance, HR departments. So other than excel knowledge, he also needs to acquire computer skill on the following areas

1.                  Writing e-mail

2.                  Replying to received mails

3.                  Making reports (Excel sheet)

4.                  Working on MS Word

5.                  Working on MS Power Point Presentation

Exception: In case factories hire junior IE for physical data recording and working on the shop floor for time study then computer skill may not be necessary.

Also read: Tips to Make Daily Production Report Quickly in Excel Sheet?

Conclusion:

All these necessary computer skills can be learned after joining to the job. So it is not necessary that computer skill is must for everyone. If you get smart candidate, hire him/her and train them later. If you are working as an IE and don’t have enough computer knowledge, practice working on the computer and make reports.

What else? Write your points in the comment box.

Operation Breakdown and Machines Types Used for Making a Cargo Pant

 industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar

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I made this operation breakdown in my college days as one class assignment. I visited one garment export house (factory) to study garment for this assignment. That time factory was making Cargo Pants (in Khaki fabric). It was a nice product. 

When I started making an operation breakdown, first I was overwhelmed by looking at number of operations of the cargo pant. In a cargo I can only see double needle stitching with thicker threads. Don't know where to start and how to breakdown operations. Then I follow the process, the way line was making that cargo pant. Finally I made it and corrected later stage.

I did time study for most of the operations and also did motion study using SPD code and TMU values (Sewing Process Data). Here I am only sharing operation breakdown and machine types used for operations. I don’t have the actual image of the cargo pant that I had studied. Following image is just for an indication. Construction and styling of the actual cargo pant was different than this one.


The cargo pant that you have may be different in styling and construction. By reading operation name here you can relate with your product and refer this for making your operation breakdown and modify where needed following your sample.

Oprn. Code	Operation Description	Machine Type
	Back Panel:
A01	Attach left piece and middle piece of the back panel	SNLS
A02	Attach 3rd piece to the previous one	SNLS
A03	O/L the raw edges	4 thread O/L
A04	Topstitch on the stitch line	DNLS
A05	Design stitch on back yokes	SNLS
A06	Sew yoke with Back panel	SNLS
A07	O/L of yoke and back seam	4 thread O/L
A08	Top stitch at yoke	DNLS
A09	Strip attach inside back panel at pocket opening	SNLS
A10	Back pocket attachment	SNLS
	Front Panel
B01	Sew front parts	SNLS
B02	O/L the raw edges	4 thread O/L
B03	Topstitch on the stitch line	DNLS
B04	Sew top pocket (side pocket) ply to pocket mouth (inside out)	SNLS
B05	Fold out and Top stitch to pocket mouth	SNLS
B06	Stitch side pocket all three sides	SNLS
B07	O/L front crotch area (J shaped)	4 O/L
B08	Zipper Fly attach to left panel	SNLS
B09	Zipper attach to Zipper fly	SNLS, single presser foot
B10	J-Stitch on the top of left panel at zipper area	SNLS, single presser foot
B11	Right Zipper fly attached to zipper	SNLS
B12	Right fly attached to right panel	SNLS
	Side Pocket:
C01	Attach rectangular patch on middle ply	SNLS
C02	Place two pocket facing on the both side of it and stitch at curved area	SNLS with edge cutter
C03	Take inner side out and top stitch at curved area	SNLS
	Side Patch Pocket:
D01	Hand creasing and fold, stitch at bottom corners and fold out	SNLS
D02	Pressing the folded edges	Iron
D03	Top stitch at upper folded edges all three sides	DNLS
D04	Sew folded portion at pocket mouth	SNLS
D05	Zipper bottom fly attach pocket mouth	SNLS
D06	Zipper stitch with bottom fly	SNLS
D07	Sew upper fly with zipper	SNLS
D08	Sew small pocket on big one	SNLS
D09	Attach flap	SNLS
	Small patch pocket
E01	Hand creasing and fold, stitch at bottom corners and fold out	SNLS
E02	Hemming pocket opening and attach button loop	SNLS
E03	Sew folded portion at pocket mouth (outer fold)	SNLS
E04	Top stitch at upper folded edges all three sides	DNLS, Compensating P/F
	Small patch pocket Flap:
F01	Fusible interlining	Fusing m/c
F02	Side fold first then centre fold and top stitch	DNLS, Compensating P/F
	Waist Band preparation:
G01	Fusing interlining all three parts ( Inner & Outer both)	Fusing m/c
G02	Folding and Pressing (outer) and marking using template	Iron and template
G03	Stitch front parts to back part( both inner & outer)	SNLS
G04	Stitch inner and outer waist band (F to F)    keeping a small patch	SNLS with edge-cutter
G05	Pressing waist band at the stitch line	Iron
G06	Attach size label to brand label	SNLS
G07	Attach brand label to inner waist band	Automated SNLS
G08	Stitch ends of  band	SNLS
	Back pocket:
H01	Serge pocket piece opening	3 thread O/L
H02	Serge the strip	3 thread O/L
H03	Stitching of pocket opening	SNLS
H04	Folding pocket mouth and stitch at sides of opening	DNLS
H05	Press three edges of pocket	Hand iron
	Belt loop:
I01	Run stitch	SNLS
I02	Pressing	Hand iron
I03	Closing of one end of belt loop	SNLS
I04	Pressing	Hand iron
I05	Top stitch on centre	DNLS, Compensating p/f
I06	Cutting according to loop length	Hand scissors
	Zipper flap:
J01	Serge left zipper fly	3 thread O/L
J02	Fold and run stitch on right zipper fly	SNLS
J03	Over lock stitch right zipper fly	3 thread O/L
	Assembly
K01	Side seam(Front and back attach)	SNLS
K02	Over lock side seam	4 thread O/L
K03	Patch pocket attach	SNLS
K04	Inseam	SNLS
K05	O/L  the edges (inseam)	4 thread O/L
K06	Topstitch on inseam	DNLS
K07	Attach left and right panel at seat and crotch area	SNLS
K08	Over lock stitch	4 thread O/L
K09	Counter stitch	SNLS
K10	Attach lower part of belt loop	SNLS
K11	Attach waist band with wash care label	SNLS
K12	Top stitch on waist band	DNLS, Compensating p/f
K13	Second stitch on at lower side of belt loop	SNLS
K14	Marking and Design stitch on belt loop and top end joining.	SNLS
K15	Bottom hemming	SNLS
K16	Stitching of zipper flaps at lower ends.	SNLS
K17	Second Brand label attach	Computerized L/s m/c
K18	Bar tack at loops, on J-stitch	Bar tacking m/c, Raised bed

Machine name abbreviation:

·                     SNLS - Single Needle Lock Stitch

·                     DNLS - Double Needle Lock Stitch

·                     O/L - Over lock Machine

·                     M/c - Machine

·                     L/S - Lock Stitch